Sunday, October 30, 2011

StayCation

So, here I sit on my balcony. It's October 30, 68 degrees, sunny, and clear. Erika and I made mimosas with French champagne. I don't go back to work until Thursday afternoon, I'm making plans to go to Barcelona in two weeks, I had several awesome day trips this week, there's internet in the apartment...

This is pretty much what I signed up for.

I spent this week exploring the region with pals in a series of day trips. This is cool for two reasons. One: I'm in a beautiful region of a beautiful country with nothing but time to explore it. Two: I actually got my act together and explored it, as opposed to not doing so, but saying I would as an empty justification for not having made fancier travel plans.

Here is the photo album for this week.

Monday, 24 October 2011

Erika and I got up really early to catch a bus to Nice and a connecting bus up to Saint-Etienne-de-Tinée. This was our route. We spent about half the day on a bus. But that's okay! Because the two hour ride from Nice to St-Etienne followed the Tinée river through an incredible valley that was stunning for every minute, even despite cloudy/drizzling weather.

We arrived around 11:30, walked a bit in the drizzle, and saw about 75% of this small ski resort town. It's adorable, and I'm certain that the mountain views are stunning on a clear (or snowy) day. We got lunch at pretty much the only restaurant that was open. I had a mushroom ravioli in this sauce that I could not figure out how to describe. It was good, but I was fighting a cold and probably wasn't tasting it properly. The cream sauce had this almost-bitter, dry kick to it that Erika decided was "astringent." I had never heard that word used for anything other than skin care products, but she volunteered the word, and I decided in a later conversation that it probably came from the wine used to make the sauce. We agreed, and we walked some more.

We explored a few trails, couldn't get into the tourist office for Erika's much-desired regional hiking maps, hiked some more, and finally found a cozy little cafe. We ordered coffee and hot chocolate, respectively, and Erika taught me Gin Rummy, which we played for an hour while waiting for the 4:15 bus back to Nice.

Tuesday, 25 October 2011


Wednesday, 26 October 2011

I didn't do much on the 26th, either.

Thursday, 27 October 2011

Today, I went over to Menton (geographic context), a charming little town right up next to the Italian border. I met up with Krisia, a fellow assistant placed in Cannes, and two assistants from up north for whom this region is a set of fancy travel plans. We had a three-hour lunch of pizza on the seaside while watching hilarious pigeon antics and wondering why the servers were willing to let us spend so much time taking up this great table on this beautiful day.

I had a thin-crust pizza with cheese, lettuce, parsley, and smoked salmon. It was very good. I could only finish half of it, though.

Afterward, we walked around, the ladies did some shopping,* and we got some gelato. There's basically one busy commercial street in Menton, and it has a few gelato stands, but I figured we should pick the one run by an Italian woman. I was right. One scoop of sweet, tart lemon and one of juicy strawberry for the win (it's my standby for a reason, and it was only 2euro50). We walked some more, snapped lots of pictures, and caught the train home.

The only thing I can't figure out: why does the limoncello flavor taste creamier than the lemon flavor?

Friday, 28 October 2011

Today's destination: St-Paul-de-Vence (everybody loves a link to Google Maps). 7 of us found our way to this very picturesque little town. I couldn't quite get a far shot, but it's a walled city on a hill, not unlike the famous Mont-Saint-Michel up in Normandy. This town is almost totally composed of cobblestone pedestrian paths and really cool shops.

...

...

...Sorry. I just praised a town for its shopping. I needed a minute to take that in.

A lot of artists have studios here, and there are lots of neat little gift shops, as well as little bistros and boutiques for food/wine/etc. All of this for sale in a bunch of charming, artsy shops. All very… not “down-to-earth,” because they are all rather upscale, but IF any of them were condescending (and I don’t think they were), then their classy factor easily overwhelmed it.

I had a pâté sandwich for lunch. It was awesome.

The Weekend

We finally got internet in the apartment (no thanks to SFR). So, U.S. folks, I am much freer to Skype/email/what-have-you.

Also, between now (Sunday) and November 6, our time difference is reduced by one hour (France ended daylight savings today, instead of next week). I hope everyone had a great Halloween weekend, and for those still celebrating (as you should be), Happy Halloween.

Pictures of my awesome (and rather appropriate) costume to follow.

-Andy

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*General Note: The gender ratio among assistants means that I am the only guy I hang out with.

Thursday, October 20, 2011

Teach, Yo!

Observations... observations...

Kids love music.
Example of the day: I was working with my youngest ones (CE1) on Tuesday, trying to teach them the numbers 1-10. I did my standard bit, which seemed to work well enough with the other sections. I put flashcards on the board. I point to each number and have them repeat after me. I point to a few numbers and ask a few kids what each number is. I ask a few kids to come to the board and have them point to the number I say. Finally, I have them all cover their eyes, hide one number behind my back and have the kids tell me what number is missing. Occasionally, between exercises, I'll run through call-and-response again with all the numbers. This was working okay for the youngest ones. So, after 30 seconds of deliberation, I decided to teach them a song. 20 of those seconds were spent making that song up. I just put the numbers 1-10 to a catchy musical interval and had them repeat it bunches and bunches of times.

Andy loves improvising.

Firm hand
French teachers seem to come down a lot harder on kids who misbehave in class. While working with kids in the states, I've noticed that adults consistently try to be more reasonable with kids, avoiding yelling as much as possible. When I sat in on classes during orientation week, a teacher might raise her voice to the kids on the first or second offense. Naturally, the intensity varies by teacher, but in France, if you bother the teacher, the teacher doesn't have to show as much restraint. And I've noticed that, in some cases, use of that sudden sternness is the only time when some of these kids will respond. That's probably not uniquely French.

That's not fair!
There's a notion of "fairness" in the American childhood (as I've encountered it, anyway) that doesn't translate the same way here. It seems to me that, for kids, something is (often) "unfair" if the plaintiff hasn't gotten something they want. To an American kid - and perhaps, less consciously, to the adults who work with them - it means everybody gets treated just as well regardless of extenuating circumstances... so that nobody feels "left out."

On Tuesday, I had a lesson prepared about Halloween (vocab, mostly), since a two-week vacation starts this weekend and I won't see them again until November. My idea to end the class was to have the kids line up in front of me, say "Trick or treat!", I give them each a little piece of candy, and they say "Thank you! Happy Halloween!". My plan was to have that lesson waiting if they were good, otherwise keep working on more integral stuff (personal introduction, numbers, pronouns, etc.). One class didn't earn it, in my estimation, so they didn't do the Halloween activity or get any candy. I felt bad afterward for not at least letting them know in advance that good behavior might have a reward. Then, I had lunch with some of the teachers and expressed this to them. They said that if the kids didn't earn it, they didn't earn it and I shouldn't worry. Not a moment's hesitation.

It's a different definition of "fairness"... and I think I'm okay with it.

Internet
I learned this morning that my proposed internet provider cancelled my long-awaited appointment for Monday to install the phone/internet line. They're going to call me in the next few days to reschedule (I have no idea what that timetable will be). My in-home connection (and Skype capability) remains up-in-the-air for the time being. I am seriously considering changing providers.

The end of this entry

-Andy

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

A Day in the Life

Since I'm finding my routine, it's getting a lot harder to tell what's worth blogging about and what isn't. So, I figured I'd play the odds and, well... blog about the routine. Here's a pretty typical Monday/Tuesday, my two busiest days of the week. Note: this is all in military time because that's the way it goes over here.

06h00: Wake up, shower, dress, pack backpack, leave the apartment.
06h30: Walk to bus station, stop for croissant and pain au chocolat along the way.
07h00: Wakin’ up in the mornin’, gotta’ be fresh gotta’ go downstairs. Gotta’ have my bowl, gotta’ have my cereal –
STOP THAT. 07h00: Meet one of the teachers, who drives me to St-Vallier as the sun rises. Have discussions of cultural differences, politics, and other enlightening conversations.
07h30: Arrive at Collet de Gasq elementary school, check email, and finalize lesson plans.
08h30: First class, with 8-9-year-olds... Tell them to be quiet upwards of 20 times, and consistently break my rule of 100% English because they only seem to shut up when I ask them to in French.
09h15: Second class, with 9-10-year-olds. Actually teach them "What is your name?", "Where are you from?", numbers, pronouns, etc.
10h00: Break. Further lesson prep if necessary, conversations with passing teachers.
10h30: Third class, with 10-11-year-olds whose English will one day be better than mine.
11h15: Kill fifteen minutes.
11h30: Lunch in cafeteria. The principal, who eats there every day, thinks the food is “insipid,” but I’m less picky, especially given how little I’m paying for a decent warm meal.
12h15ish: Walk to Emile Felix elementary school, admiring the clear mountain air and scenery.
13h30: Fourth class, with adorable 6-7-year-olds.
14h15: Fifth class, with 8-9-year-olds.
15h00: Walk around St-Vallier’s one non-residential street, sit on the green at the center of town enjoying the weather and free time, and/or go grocery shopping for the week (if it’s Tuesday).
16h30: Bus back to Grasse. Admire the view.
16h45: Walk home.
17h10: Stop at the government-sponsored internet café/space for adult classes. Check email.
17h25: I read the news today – oh, boy.
18h00: Get home, ask Martina and Erika about their days, laugh at French TV commercials, and wonder why all this particular channel shows is The Simpsons, dubbed in French.
19h00: Throw together dinner. Eat on the balcony if so inclined. More of what happened at 18h00.
20h00: Decide I should probably do my lesson planning for the next day.
20h05: Start my lesson planning for the next day.
20h15: Finish my lesson planning for the next week.
20h16: It varies.
21h45: Go to bed. Remember there are 7 more days until in-home wifi.

-Andy

Thursday, October 13, 2011

It's Another To-Kill-For Sunrise.

Hi, folks-- not much to report today, except I'm finally posting some photos from the last month. You can find them by double-clicking here.

If that doesn't work (or if you want the link itself), copy and paste the following into the address bar of your browser:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150863681675179.754085.734690178&type=1&l=7b3eb7c686

This should work even if you're not on Facebook (or shouldn't be, in my parents' case). If you can't see it for whatever reason, let me know and I'll look into it.

First week's going pretty well. I have to run to class (it's in Grasse, so just running - no buses or carpools today), but my next post will be peppered with a few details about social goings-on.

This message brought to you by government-sponsored free internet even closer to my apartment than the McDonald's.

-Andy

Monday, October 10, 2011

Day One

Okay, this is it - this is the day I actually write about the teaching I came to this country to do. I have to say that, as the person living it, I found today surprisingly uneventful (not that that stopped me from writing a bloody novel). Of course, considering the alternative, perhaps that's a good thing. Since I cover fairly basic stuff ("What is your name?", "Where are you from?", etc.), most of my commentary will be fairly general, and possibly a bit dry for it. If you find it that way, I do apologize.

In a bizarre miracle, I made it to school on time. I woke up at 6, which is altogether too early for France. I got ready, left a note for Martina and Erika wishing them good luck on our first day teaching, and walked to the boulangerie (bakery) to grab a croissant and pain au chocolat for breakfast. 1 euro 55 cents. First victory of the day. I made it to the bus station by 7:10 to catch my 7:30 bus.

So, now that I've truly earned the title of "my father's son," what do I do for 20 minutes?


Oh. That works.

This bus... full of surprises: 20 minutes late, broke down halfway to St-Vallier, and then - for no good reason - unexpectedly dropped me right in front of the school (instead of a sizable walk away) 5 minutes early. Also, sorry to keep pickin' on my father, but I've found the last untapped way to make him hate his commute more, which is by comparing it to mine:


So, for fear that I actually get to the point and talk about working with little French kids, I'm going to take a paragraph or three to explain how a French elementary school is set up. My students run the gamut from 6 to 11 years old (but damned if I'll be teaching them the word "gamut"). They're divided roughly as follows:

CE1: 6-8 years old
CE2: 8-9
CM1: 9-10
CM2: 10-11

Whereas grades in the U.S. are dictated mostly by age, these divisions are a bit more sensitive to skill level. Naturally, they're not going to put a 7-year-old in CM2, even if he is bloody brilliant, but you can think of these levels as school grades with a dash of meritocracy à la those reading groups you had in third grade.

Also, despite my title of "assistant," I run the show. Resources and staff are supposedly tighter in elementary schools than other levels... I can't vouch for other towns in the region, but it's definitely true up in Grasse and St-Vallier de Thiey. I was alone in the classroom for one or two of my groups today. The homeroom teachers split their classes, gave me half for my 45-minute class, and worked with the other half on something else in the meantime (which is actually how we did it in my elementary school). But I also worked with a few entire classes, meaning the teachers were in the classroom to help. In these cases, they did some crowd control and/or used their English to help me demonstrate question-and-answer routines.

"Which question and answer routines?" I hear you ask. Well, not really, because this is a one-sided conversation typed on the internet, but indulge my unwieldy attempt at a transition.

First up today: about 16 CE2 kids (8-9 years old) a bit on the talkative side. I opened with a very simple song whose title is "Hello, my friends, hello." It's an apt title for this song, because those are the only words in it. But it's a song, it's easy to pick up, and it's in English, so the kids loved it. The rest of the lesson was - and they're all going to be this way - pretty straightforward: I taught them to ask and answer two questions: "What is your name?" and "Where are you from?".

I stuck to oral activities: having them repeat the words after me and building up to the full expression, then me asking them their name, then them asking me my name, then them asking a partner, and finally a unified chain where one says "My name is Jean-Claude" and asks somebody else in the room "What is your name?" Then they answer and ask somebody else until we make it most (or all) of the way around. Same with "Where are you from?" During orientation, they discouraged us from doing too much written work, especially not with the younger ones, and I felt most confident relying on myself as an activity for the first day, rather than printing out tons of color-in worksheets (but those will have their day...s).

For sake of simplicity, I planned to teach pretty much the same thing to all five of my classes today. Of course, my second class (CM1, 9-10 years old) was a bit more advanced and required some improvisation. So, I did, taking the opportunity to explore what they knew and what they didn't. CM1 had the same drill, but when they mastered "What is your name?" and "Where are you from?" fairly quickly, I decided to move on to something a little more subtle.

Big difference between English and French: gendered nouns. In French, the "chair" you're sitting in is female. A "name" is male. Fellow English-speakers, I have to say, I don't think you're missing much. But the point is, French students using possessive pronouns ("his", "her", "its") are used to choosing "son" or "sa" based on the gender of the thing possessed, rather than its possessor. So, can I get a whole lesson - and ten minutes of review tomorrow - out of "What is his name" and "What is her name"?

You better believe it. And you better believe the kids did a rockin' awesome job with it.

After those back-to-back classes, it's now 10:00 AM, and I have a half-hour break. I chat with my very nice colleagues, get a request to tutor that I'll likely take, arrange a carpool, and explain for the fifth or sixth time in the last week that, thank you very much, but I don't drink coffee.

10:30 - time for CM2.

These kids blew me away. They knew "What is your name?" and everything in a 10-kilometer radius. I exhausted "do you prefer _____ or _____?", "What is your favorite color?", colors, "Where are you from," and "How old are you?" This was mostly me reviewing and getting a sense of what they've covered. If I had these kids stand in front of the class and do a fairly complicated introduction dialogue tomorrow morning, I have little dobut they'd all do fine. The best part was that they were still into it and understood basically all of my directions, which means I've got license to do something more complicated and fun with them tomorrow. I had dispensed with "Hello, my friends, hello" because I thought it would be too simple for them and that they might be too cool for singing, but a girl came up to me at the end and asked if we would sing a song tomorrow.

And then it hit me. Ladies and gentlemen, The Fabulous Beatles.

I had visited the school briefly last Tuesday as part of orientation week, and I had arranged to get school lunches for the duration of my contract. For a euro fifty, I got couscous with vegetables, tender turkey cutlets in good sauce, delicious oranges, and bread with brie. Victory count: 6.

That was all at Collet de Gasq, an intimate school whose building I rather like, architecturally speaking. My schedule was a bit tight today, so I didn't have time to get pictures. Those will come soon. (I'm also nearly ready to launch my photo album.) I walked over to Emile Felix for a CE1 class (the littlest ones in my domain), which was the bare basics of "What is your name?" Same drill as earlier, but these kids were so small and had glasses almost as big as their heads and they freaking loved it. It was adorable.

Also, I'm taking wifi off the street and one of the kids I taught today just walked by and said "bonjour". Umpteenth victory of the day.

Last class of the day was another CM1 (9-10)... this one was a little dicey, but mostly went well. "What's your name?" and "Where are you from?", pretty basic. The kids were slightly talkative, and though the teacher was there and helped quiet them down a bit, it didn't always help. I did score a few laughs by demonstrating a question/answer with the head from their model skeleton, Pascal.

One day, when these kids have grown up a bit, one of them is gonna' watch Hamlet, and during the Yorick scene, stand up and shout "That's my English teacher!"

That's pretty much it... Oh, parting thought: I'm in a pretty sweet position, teaching-wise, because I have two things going for me: I smile, and I'm American. Apparently, in the mind of the average French child, this is enough to make just about anything I do interesting. And if my lesson's kinda' lame? It doesn't matter to them, 'cause I'm interesting, and I don't sweat it because my speaking English to them is the most important part, anyway.

I'm fairly sure almost all of these kids learned today's material last year. But they're kids - they forget it from year to year. Which is fine, really - my French is good, and I may have started in kindergarten, but I didn't actually learn any of it until 7th grade. What's really key to teaching youngsters a foreign language - and what I can actually do - is presenting them with a native speaker's accent at a young age and (hopefully) making the language classes enough fun that they'll actually want to keep learning it in the coming years.

Of course, it's also a lot about making sure they want to keep learning it in the coming days. And an enthusiastic chorus of "Goodbye!" when I pass them on my way out the school's gate is victory enough for day one.

-Andy



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The link in the first paragraph is a clip from a classic French film, 'Zero de Conduite', which means "Zero for Conduct" (as in an elementary/middle school grade). We watched it in New Wave Cinema a few years back. I still have no idea why.

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Bloggers' Strike

Hi, everyone-- unfortunately, this will be my last entry for the foreseeable future. One of the big unions in France is on strike. Bloggers across the country aren't writing again until we all have working wi-fi and phone lines in our apartments. These strikes tend to last a little while, so it could be the end of the month before you hear from me here again.

I should probably clarify that I am the only person in that union. And it's not so much a strike as a phone/internet installation scheduled for October 26.

So, quick note brought to you by free wi-fi at a McDonald's two miles (on foot) from my apartment:

-I moved into my apartment this weekend.
-I'm going to orientation stuff all day every day next week.
-While I won't be posting, I will be keeping notes, so expect... well, whatever it is you expect from this blog... in back-issue at the end of the month.

Y'all are great. Internet service providers in France, on the other hand... not so much.

-Andy